Use this handy wide leg tutorial to widen any sewing pattern hem – we’re using the Adult Tipa Dungarees as an example.
Hello lovely sewistas of the BTK community.
Hello, I am Deepa and I love to sew. I have a wardrobe full of me-made clothes which I love to wear and also refashion, sew for friends and family and journal my makes at @sunbirdsews (Instagram).
Dungarees are so much fun, both to make and to wear, and the Tipa Dungarees are a pattern with infinite possibilities.
Have you already made a Tipa Dungarees and want to make one more slightly different?
How about those straight wide legged dungarees which are so much in vogue now?
Well, this tutorial has got you covered. Choose a fabric with good drape and follow along.
1. 18 inch Long curved ruler – If this is unavailable then a straight edge ruler will be okay.
2. Large piece of paper – Kraft paper or even newspaper
3. Cello tape
4. Measuring tape
Before we begin:
Make a toile and adjust if appropriate to obtain a good fit. Transfer the adjustments made on the toile onto your pattern. Only the front and back pattern pieces will be modified.
Widening Tipa Legs
Remove hem allowance: Draw a line 3.5cm (1 3/8″) above bottom line and trim it away.
Draw a line 3.5cm (1 3/8″) from the bottom edge of the large paper.
Place the large paper underneath the pattern pieces so that the hem sits on this line.
Tape in place.
Draw a line, perpendicular to the grain line across the crotch points
Draw another line parallel to Step 3 line, 5-7cm (2 – 3″) below.
Mark A and B on the ends of this line.
For a straight leg look we will be adding a minimum of 15cm (6”) approximately to the width at the hem. This needs to be added evenly to inseam and outseam of Front and back. So we divide this by 4.
15cm/4= 3.75cm (Lets call this X)
6″/4 = 1.5″ (Lets call this X)
Extend by X , on either side of the hem on both front and back pattern pieces (C & D)
Draw Vertical lines about 2.5cm (1″) long from C and D on both pattern pieces.
Join Wide Leg Markings
Connect A to C using a curved ruler and continue to follow the curve which gradually straightens as we near the hem. Try and achieve a smooth join, even if it takes two passes.
If you don’t have a curved ruler , try to get the best curve with free hand drawing.
Then, connect B to D using a straight ruler.
Experiment : X can be anything as long as you are able to achieve right angles at the hem and still able to connect A to C , B to D smoothly.
Use a measuring tape and measure the new outseams (A & C) of front and back pattern pieces, they must match . If the don’t then adjust the newly drawn lines.
Repeat for inseams (B & D)
Fold the bottom paper along hem line towards the wrong side.
Cut out the pattern pieces along the newly draw lines and unfold the hem.
Follow the cutting and sewing instructions and Voila!
I made a size 8 and widened the legs using the above steps. I also shortened the legs by a couple of inches for a cropped look. Here is a picture for reference!
Thanks for sharing this leg widening tutorial Deepa! We love your new look Tipa Dungarees!
Love and happy sewing,