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DIY Bias Binding

Turn the inside of any garment into a work of art with bias binding!

You can buy bias binding from your local craft store for only a few dollars, or you can make your own fabulous binding with what you have in your sewing kit at home!

Think bold colours or pretty florals tucked away as a secret only the wearer will know about, handmade binding can become a real feature of a garment.

If you’re new to sewing with bias binding, fear not! If you’ve purchased a Below the Kōwhai sewing pattern that involves binding you will received a comprehensive tutorial to sew it.

This blog tutorial will walk you through creating your own binding, so you can co-ordinate your own fabrics with your handmade garments!

What is bias binding?

Bias Binding is a strip of fabric that is cut on a 45 degree angle across a woven fabric.

Because its on an angle (“the bias”) it is super flexible, and you’ll be able to use it to bend around lots of curved edges (like necklines and arm holes) while it still lays flat! It’s super handy.

What kind of bias bindings are there?

You can buy the binding in a few different widths, or you can make your own in any width.

There are two kinds of binding to look out for: single fold or double fold.

Single fold is the type of binding that The Pipi Top and Kororā Dress uses around it’s arm holes (pictured below). It is flat on its right side and tucks inside the garment. It isn’t seen from the outside.

“single” fold refers to the outer edges being folded.

Double fold is the type of bias you would use on a quilt edge – you can see it from both sides and when un-sewn it has a crease down the centre for easy folding.

“double” fold refers to the outer edges being folded, and then folded again along the centre.

Lets get started!

Today we are making 12mm single / double fold bias tape!

You’ll need a square of 36cm x 36cm (14″ x 14″) cotton fabric.


Mark and cut your fabric diagonally.

On the wrong side, mark the top and bottom as A. and the two sides as B.


Flip over your fabric and align the two A sides, right sides together.


You’ll see the corners poke out in little triangles on each side. Align the sides so that your 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance will land where these edges meet.

Sew a 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance across the “A” side.


Open your fabric up into its new parallelogram shape. Press the seam open.

SINGLE FOLD: Starting from the bottom edge (A), use a pen or pencil to mark 2.4cm (1″) in horizontal lines.

DOUBLE FOLD: Starting from the bottom edge (A), use a pen or pencil to mark 5cm (2″) in horizontal lines.

These lines wont be seen, so don’t worry too much about marking the fabric.

If you have any excess fabric at the top when you are finished marking the lines, trim this off now.


With right sides together, bring the two B edges into the centre.

Align the first line with its opposite raw edge.


Start in the centre and pin the two B edges together, with their lines meeting.

You’ll notice because of the angles, the lines don’t meet at the edge. Like at the beginning when you first joined the fabric together, you want the lines to meet at your seam allowance point. So measure back 6mm or 1/4″ from the edge and pin so your lines meet at this point.

Continue pinning at each line.

Sew a 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance.


Press seam open.

If you have lined them up correctly, your lines will run in together like this example.


Start at one edge and cut along the lines, in a big tube until all of your binding is created! So easy!

Fold and Press your DIY Bias Binding!


SINGLE FOLD (pictured below): To turn it into single fold bias binding to use on your Pipi Top, fold in the two edges towards the wrong side so they meet in the middle. Use your hot iron to press down as you move along the tape.

DOUBLE FOLD: To turn it into double fold binding, press in half (wrong sides together) length ways. Fold the two raw edges in to the centre, press.


Your binding is ready to use! Check out the comprehensive tutorial within your Pipi Top, Kororā Dress and Rawe Top pattern’s to see how to attach it to your garment for neatly finished, no fuss seams!

Want to chat? You’ll find me in our Below The Kōwhai Community Group on Facebook.

Love and happy sewing,
Sophie x

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